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DHARAMSALA & MCLEOD GUNJ
Our local towns. Population: 17,000

It was here that the Dalai Lama and his followers came after the Chinese invasion of Tibet, when Prime Minister Nehru granted him an area of land. The Dalai Lama is the recipient of the 1989 Nobel Peace Prize, awarded to him not only for his spiritual activities, but for his struggle for the liberation of Tibet. Throughout his more than 30 years of exile, for religious as well as practical reasons, the Dalai Lama has worked for a peaceful settlement with China, which is in line with his pacifist approach to all personal and political conflicts in the world.

For the student of Tibetan culture there's the monastery up at McLeod Ganj and the school of Tibetan studies and its library. McLeod Ganj is full of colour and energy: in the middle of the main street there's a small temple with a series of prayer wheels; and strings of multi-coloured Tibetan prayer flags wave in the breeze. There are many reestaurants, shops and markt stalls seelling local Indian and Tibetan goods.

His Holiness the Dalai Lama gives teachings and private audiences every year in March. Travellers may request an audience with His Holiness the Dalai Lama of Tibet at his temple here. However, you need to check in advance (by contacting his Private Office in McLeod Ganj) because he is so much in demand by Tibetans, Indians and Westerners alike.

The Tibetan Medical Centre, Men-Tsee-Khang, will be of interest to followers of alternative medicine.

Dharamsala was originally a British hill resort and one of the most poignant memorials of that era is the pretty Church of St John in the Wilderness. Here Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India, was buried in 1863.It is only a short distance below McLeod Ganj and has beautiful stained glass windows.

The Kangra Art Museum is also in Dharamsala. It houses miniature paintings from the famous Kangra school of art, which flourished in the Kangra Valley in the 17th century.

THE STATE OF HIMACHAL PRADESH
Population: 5.1 million
Area: 55,673 sq km
Capital: Shimla
Main Languages: Hindi, Pahari
Literacy Rate: 63%

The state of Himachal Pradesh came into being in its present form with the partition of the Punjab into Punjab and Haryana in 1966. Himachal Pradesh is essentially a mountain state - it takes in the transition zone from the plains to the high Himalaya, and in the trans-Himalayan region of Lahaul and Spiti actually crosses that mighty barrier to the Tibetan plateau. It's a delightful state for visitors, particularly during the hot season when people flock to its hill stations to escape the searing heat of the plains.

The Kulu valley is simply one of the most beautiful areas on earth - a lush, green valley with the sparkling Beas River running through it and the snow-capped Himalayan peaks forming the background. From Manali the trip along the spectacular mountain road to Leh is breathtaking, and it takes you across the highest mountain road pass in the world - only open for a few brief months of each year. Then there's Dharamsala, where we are, and a host of other hill stations, lakes, walks and mountains.

Wildlife
There are fishing possibilities in many places in Himachal Pradesh and a number of Trout hatcheries have been established. Some of the state's deer, antelope, mountain goats and sheep are now rather rare. Himalayan black bears and brown bears are found in many parts of the state; the black bear is fairly common but the brown bear is usually found only at higher elevations in certain districts. Snow leopards are now very rare and only found at high elevations in the most remote parts of the state. Panthers and leopards are, however, still found in many forested regions. Himachal Pradesh has numerous kinds of pheasants and partridges, mountain birds and butterflies.

Temples
In the Kangra and Chamba valleys there are several 8th to 10th century temples in the Indo-Aryan sikhara (curved spire) style. Pagoda style temples with multi tiered roofs are found in the Kulu Valey. There are many temples of purely local design, often with interesting wood carving, particularly in the Chamba region. In the south of the state ther are numerous temples with elements of Moghul and Sikh design, while in several locations there are cave temples. Finally, the Tibetans, who came to the state following the Chinese invasion of their country, have built colourful gompas (monasteries) and temples. The people of Lajaul and Spiti in the north of the state are also of Tibetan extraction and have many interesting gompas.

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